Japanese Dragon
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  • Type: Papercraft
  • Model: White Chinese Dragon
  • Creator: B.F.P.F
  • Skill Level: Advanced
  • No. of Sheets: 22
  • Size: ? in.
  • File Type: Pepakura in a .zip file


None required but see notes


Previously posted on /po: Tips on how to assemble the dragon
Model is done in 5 stacking sections:

1 head and neck 2 chest and fore limbs 3 abdomen 4 rear legs and hips
5 tail

Points of Note:
tail-hip connection sucks snail snot and fin notation-registration on spine of the tail is off by one body segment.
- Edited note: The reason why it wouldn't connect proberly is because the first part of the tail, and the last part of the hip is the same! Simply
remove either the last hip or first tail part to make it fit. The same goes for the whole dragon - when connecting two files (Fx. head and upper body) always remove one piece. Another advice: when making the body (spine) build it around the stand. The first time i made this dragon I made the dragon and the stand seperately. But I couldn't put the dragon on the stand, so I had to redo the whole body.
Also model is reversed. To make the model appear the same as the photo, fold it inside out so the black lines are inside, though this will make aligning and registration more difficult, also the pole will then most likely have to be mirror imaged or at least the top 2 sections with the white support posts.

Note … abdomen has three square holes in it to slide over the white post squares
Pieces with a * are meant to have a fin on spinal ridge. Just cut off the tab and glue the ridge's tabs from inside to join the sides.

If you start with the mouth, the top of the head is really hard to assemble, with hard to reach places. Begin with the snout, then the eyes, only then start with the mouth's roof and chin. By doing this, you can also glue the beard's pieces over the mouth roof and below the mouth floor(?), so their tabs won't show. Same thing when assembling the beard parts behind the ears.

Cut the ears over a blank piece of paper (to create a copy), so you have a completely blank piece; else fold marks will show, same thing with the whiskers, the four teeth and the claws. Speaking of the whiskers (the long ones), do them in a different color, they are not the same as the body. Before starting the neck, cut 2 small pieces of paper and glue to the other side of the ears tabs so you can't see all the ugly inside.

When finishing 1-atama, if you are going to do part 3-ude, use the first part of 3-ude instead of the last part of 1-atama. The parts are slightly different, and the one from 3-ude fits better. When building the arms (and the legs too!), finish them before attaching to the body.

The best part to build after part 3-ude is the base, 7-hasira. Join the five pieces flat, aligning them as perfect as possible; only then close the octagon.

The finished model is not well balanced, it tips towards the head. Attach the base legs to a piece of cardboard (I used a shoebox lid) to make if more stable.

Existing sheet lay out
01 chest and upper foreleg
02 03 front legs
04 05 06 abdomen
07 08 rear hip
09 10 rear leg
11 head accessories
12 13 14 tail
15 nose whiskers lower jaw
16 nasal snout eyes top of head horns
17 sharp neck curve and neck
18– 23 base

assembly recommendation
Head pages 15 16 11 neck 17 chest an upper forelegs 1 forelegs 2 - 3 abdomen 4 5 6 rear hips 07 rear legs 08 09 tail 12 13 14


Dragon.zip (127KB)

Additional Images

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